drere Amellal Hotel has no address. Indeed it's in the middle of nowhere, miles away from the nearest town, and so different than anything you can imagine. The adventure starts with a long drive thru the Liby Desert to Siwa Oasis, eight hours by road from Cairo. Then you follow trails for another 10 miles, reach Fatnas Island and go round the lake. And there you are! But it's well worth passing the endurance test because Adrere Amellel is definitely the most amazing Egyptian hotel, a 1000 and one night palace where the traveller nearly sleeps in the open under the starry desert skies.

Back to the nature

Built in 1997 by the Egyptian doctor Mounir Neamatalla, Adrere Amallal ("white mountain" in Berber) is the first ecolodge in the country. No electricity, only candle or torch light, no phone, the nearest one being 10 miles away. In fact, you are totally cut off. Here, nature is master of every detail. No need for air conditioning: during the day you stay cool in the shade, and in the evening desert winds are quite refreshing. Even the cuisine is natural. The Assouan chief innovates recipes with local garden vegetables and herbs, and his assistants bake bread daily in mud ovens. Nature is generous to those who graciously accept.

  

Back on the «white mountain », one of the numerous limestone mounds of the region, the resort sits like a traditional village. The 30 rooms are made of karshif, a mixture of mud, stone and salt water. Bricklayers and carpenters came from the region to employ their art and ancestral techniques.

Adrere Amellal is a labyrinth, a palace with a thousand paths, alleys and streets. You take a stroll in very small and shaded lanes, walk down curved passages to open spaces, parlour games, reading rooms, and sunny terraces. You can let yourself get lost in this voluptuous natural maze.

Likewise, the interior harmonizes nature and luxury. Couches and armchairs are made of mud, covered with white cushions. The smallest window is sculpted or ornamented with white stones. An example of the originality of the architecture: the bathroom is half open to the outdoors.

Leisure will delight comtemplators. A special trail leads to the famous White Mountain. At the top of this natural pyramid, you can contemplate centuries of wild nature, the oasis and its three adjacent lakes, the great desert beyond. The adventurous can discover it by four-wheel drive, the more foolhardy by dromedary. Not to mention the swimming pool. Finally, a mineral spring, cool during the day and warm at night. Mother Nature knows what she's doing! But there's nothing like the total black Siwa nights, broken only by stars and a few candles here and there so no one gets lost. A huge olive wood fire illuminates a drink in a open bar or a diner on the terrace, all in a perfect silence.

The only cloud on the horizon: the price. Expect 400 dollars a night for a couple-the price of authenticity! The Adrere Amallal is not a replica sculpted in paper maché. It's a palace of amazing simplicity in total harmony with nature. The price is due too the social interest of the concept: an opportunity to use the expertise of local labour. The grumbler can compare it to the price of a 4-star hotel in a Michelin Guide but with a million more overhead!

Benoît Merlin © 2002